You might know this as bathtub refinishing. Same work, either name. We refinish bathtubs, tile and vanity tops in place — stripped, repaired, primed and sprayed with a coating that cures hard. It takes a day rather than a week, and it costs a fraction of replacement because nothing gets torn out.
The coatings and stripping agents give off strong fumes. Proper work means forced-air exhaust, masking of the room, and a respirator. This is the step most often skipped on cheap jobs.
Any previous refinish coating has to come off completely. Chips, rust-through spots, and cracks get filled and faired before anything is sprayed, because the coating follows the shape underneath.
Glazed porcelain is deliberately non-porous, so it is chemically etched or abraded to give the primer something to grip. Skipping or rushing this is the single biggest cause of failure.
Old caulk is cut out, drain and overflow trim comes off, and the surrounding tile is masked. Coating sprayed over caulk peels along that line within months.
A bonding primer suited to the substrate goes down first, then multiple thin sprayed coats of acrylic urethane or a similar two-part coating, each flashed off before the next.
Hardware and fresh caulk go back after the coating has set. Most systems need 24 to 72 hours before water contact, and longer before heavy use.
If you are seeing any of this, call us before it gets more expensive.
| What you are seeing | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| Coating peeling in sheets near the drain | Etching was inadequate or water sat on an uncured finish |
| Yellowing across the whole tub floor | Normal aging of the coating, or a single overly heavy coat |
| Rust visible through a chip | Steel substrate is exposed; needs metal repair before coating |
| Soft or flexing tub floor underfoot | Structural support problem; a coating will crack over it |
The tub is identified as cast iron, steel, fiberglass or acrylic, and checked for previous refinishing, rust-through, and flex in the floor of the tub. That determines the whole approach.
The room is masked, exhaust is set up, and old caulk, trim and any failed prior coating are removed. Stripping a previous refinish is the longest part of the job when it applies.
Chips and cracks are filled and faired flush, then the whole surface is chemically etched or abraded so the primer can bond to what is otherwise a deliberately slick glaze.
Bonding primer first, then several thin coats sprayed with flash time between. Thin coats matter: a heavy coat sags at the tub radius and stays soft underneath.
Hardware is reinstalled and fresh caulk applied after the coating sets. Water contact usually waits 24 to 72 hours depending on the system used.